in search of darn good digs

Visitors to Minas Gerais, the Brazilian state bordering Rio de Janeiro, can step back in time by wandering the cobblestone streets among whitewashed 18th century houses in dozens of colonial mining towns dotting the region. The most famous destinations, Ouro Preto, Tiradentes, and Mariana, are closest to Rio, but true treasures await for intrepid travelers willing to follow the Estrada Real, or Royal Road, deeper into the heart of Brazil’s gold mining history.  Not too far from the exquisite and less touristed World Heritage city of Diamantina lies a small pousada with beautiful cottages, delicious food, and the warmest of welcomes. Lydia, from The Perfect Pantry, took a culinary adventure to Minas to visit her friend and trained chef, Peter Edwards, and his wife, Marcinha, at their Pousada do Capao.   Here is Lydia’s review:

Pousada do Capao, near Diamantina, Minas Gerais

What makes the Pousada do Capão so Darn Good? The Pousada has beautiful cottages and delicious food. Owners Peter and Marcinha make everyone feel like the most welcome guest in their home. In addition, they will arrange any sort of sightseeing, transportation, or guides that you need.

Location: Pousada do Capão is located on the outskirts of the small village of São Gonçalo do Rio das Pedras in the state of Minas Gerais, ninety minutes from the closest city, Diamantina. The town sits along the Estrada Real, or Royal Way, a road built in the 17th century by the Portuguese to transport gold and diamonds back to Lisbon. Today the road is still mostly unpaved, and the towns and villages along the way appear frozen in time with Baroque churches, cobblestone streets, and period buildings. The Pousada is located in the Cerrado, a tropical savannah home to waterfalls, caves, twisted trees, and petroglyphs.

Rooms: The Pousada has eight individual cottages, as well as four rooms with shared bath in the main house. All are decorated with local crafts and are surrounded by beautiful grounds, an abundance of lovely native plants, and mountain views.

Food: Excellent! Peter is a trained chef, and he uses many local ingredients to create inspiring meals combining Brazilian and American traditions. A gourmet dinner is included with the room rate, as is breakfast, which consists of home-made cakes, cookies, puddings, and granola, as well as local Serro cheese, fresh fruits, and juices.

Pousada do Capao, near Diamantina, Minas Gerais

Vibe: The pousada is a peaceful and friendly retreat.

Keep in Mind: Nights are quiet here, so be prepared for some serious relaxation.

Price Range: R$95-R$190 (dinner & breakfast included)
# of Rooms: 12
Kid-Friendly: yes

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As always, if you’ve stayed at any extraordinary independently owned accommodations for budget-minded travelers, please nominate them today!